Day One: The Trip North
Jun. 14th, 2021 09:13 am We set off for Bearskin in our usual frenzy of packing and whatnot. The first leg of the road is always just a push, three hours north, to Duluth. Once in Duluth, we begin to meander down Scenic Highway 61.

Image: Mason sits on the lava flow beach looking out at a calm Lake Superior.
Normally, we do a lot of stopping, but for some reason I kept missing turn-ins.
This time, too, some of our favorite spots were really crowded—it seemed much more crowded than normal, in fact. We could not get in at all at Gooseberry Falls, so we ended up stopping at Split Rock Lighthouse to use the bathroom.
In the Split Rock Lighthouse parking lot we had what I shall dub the “Long-horned bug Incident.” In which, when I tried to shoo at long-horned beetle out off the window, it decided to fly INTO the car. This set Shawn off in full icky-icky-GET-IT-OFF-ME panic mode that involved a shriek so loud that it turned heads in the parking lot. I had to tell a concerned passing couple “just a bug!” as I scooped it off Shawn’s skirt into my hands. From there, I carefully got our bug friend on to the roof. (It had very sticky feet! It was slow moving and fun to handle?)
No long-horned beetles were harmed in the making of this comedy of errors.
We were getting frustrated this trip, however, because we usually have at least one amazing experience and, while the bug incident was funny, the whole trip was feeling more annoying than fun.
Then, on a whim, we turned into Sugarloaf Cove, which is before Taconite Harbor as you head north on 61. This was our trip’s treasure!

Image: Somehow I took a picture of the cove and missed the signature rock. Alas.

Images: A dark, narrow path disappearing into a wooded forest.
One of our favorite stops at is the Buchanan Settlement Marker. As the name might imply, the site of a short-lived city. A Northwoods ghost town, if you will. We mostly go for the lava flow beaches and the view of Lake Superior.

Image: Mason sits on the lava flow beach looking out at a calm Lake Superior.
We stopped for lunch in Two Harbors, thinking that it would be nice to go out to the breakwater and find a spot to have a kind of picnic. The wind coming of the water at Two Harbors Breakwater was so strong that we watched sea gulls doing that thing where they are kind of pushed backwards by the wind. Nothing could be set down or it would blow away, not even our cheese curds!
Further up 61, there is an excellent spot for agate hunting, Flood Bay. When Mason was small, we have been known to spend literal hours just combing the beach for cool rocks. Even now we usually last at least a hour, just rock hunting, or—like this year, trying to dare each other into sticking our feet into the icy cold Superior Lake water. I don’t think I made it a full minute. The air might have been in the eighties, but the water was close to freezing. Mason said it reminded him of a kind of opposite ice cream headache. Afterwards, our legs were a bit numb!
Normally, we do a lot of stopping, but for some reason I kept missing turn-ins.
This time, too, some of our favorite spots were really crowded—it seemed much more crowded than normal, in fact. We could not get in at all at Gooseberry Falls, so we ended up stopping at Split Rock Lighthouse to use the bathroom.
In the Split Rock Lighthouse parking lot we had what I shall dub the “Long-horned bug Incident.” In which, when I tried to shoo at long-horned beetle out off the window, it decided to fly INTO the car. This set Shawn off in full icky-icky-GET-IT-OFF-ME panic mode that involved a shriek so loud that it turned heads in the parking lot. I had to tell a concerned passing couple “just a bug!” as I scooped it off Shawn’s skirt into my hands. From there, I carefully got our bug friend on to the roof. (It had very sticky feet! It was slow moving and fun to handle?)
No long-horned beetles were harmed in the making of this comedy of errors.
We were getting frustrated this trip, however, because we usually have at least one amazing experience and, while the bug incident was funny, the whole trip was feeling more annoying than fun.
Then, on a whim, we turned into Sugarloaf Cove, which is before Taconite Harbor as you head north on 61. This was our trip’s treasure!

Image: Somehow I took a picture of the cove and missed the signature rock. Alas.
There is an interpretative center that is at the end of a mile long loop that takes you down to where you can see the sugar cube shaped rock that is at the cove’s tip. We tried to stop at the center, but it was closing down for the day. The hike was just what our family needed.

Images: A dark, narrow path disappearing into a wooded forest.
We rolled into Bearskin Lodge around 7pm. The Lodge had warned us in advance of major construction in Grand Marais, so we were able to successfully navigate around it, painlessly. By chance, Mason had suggested we pack some pulled pork that was a “heat it up and eat it” meal. Perfect for after a long day on the road and a lot of hauling of luggage into the cabin.
Now we settle in. On Sunday we drove to Grand Marais and saw a big grey wolf on the road. She trotted in front of us for a good mile before finally deciding to disappear back into the woods. We have NEVER seen a wolf up here before. Shawn missed it, since she wasn't feeling up to the trek into town... and now deeply regrets it.
This morning on our canoe ride we saw something weasel-like running along the shoreline. A mink or some variety? A river otter? We have no idea, it was gone too fast.
The Lodge here has wifi, so I will try to update from time to time. But, from here on out it's a lot of walks in the woods and canoe rides. I am trying to organize my family into checking out a few of the more "destination" places nearby, like "Devil's Kettle." We'll see if I can get my "indoorsy" family that motivated.
We bought three boxes of books, so.... 50/50.
This morning on our canoe ride we saw something weasel-like running along the shoreline. A mink or some variety? A river otter? We have no idea, it was gone too fast.
The Lodge here has wifi, so I will try to update from time to time. But, from here on out it's a lot of walks in the woods and canoe rides. I am trying to organize my family into checking out a few of the more "destination" places nearby, like "Devil's Kettle." We'll see if I can get my "indoorsy" family that motivated.
We bought three boxes of books, so.... 50/50.