lydamorehouse: (Default)
 We set off for Bearskin in our usual frenzy of packing and whatnot.  The first leg of the road is always just a push, three hours north, to Duluth. Once in Duluth, we begin to meander down Scenic Highway 61.

One of our favorite stops at is the Buchanan Settlement Marker. As the name might imply, the site of a short-lived city. A Northwoods ghost town, if you will. We mostly go for the lava flow beaches and the view of Lake Superior.
 
Mason sits on the lava flow beach looking out at a calm Lake Superior.
Image: Mason sits on the lava flow beach looking out at a calm Lake Superior.
 
We stopped for lunch in Two Harbors, thinking that it would be nice to go out to the breakwater and find a spot to have a kind of picnic. The wind coming of the water at Two Harbors Breakwater was so strong that we watched sea gulls doing that thing where they are kind of pushed backwards by the wind. Nothing could be set down or it would blow away, not even our cheese curds!
 
Further up 61, there is an excellent spot for agate hunting, Flood Bay. When Mason was small, we have been known to spend literal hours just combing the beach for cool rocks. Even now we usually last at least a hour, just rock hunting, or—like this year, trying to dare each other into sticking our feet into the icy cold Superior Lake water. I don’t think I made it a full minute. The air might have been in the eighties, but the water was close to freezing. Mason said it reminded him of a kind of opposite ice cream headache. Afterwards, our legs were a bit numb!

Normally, we do a lot of stopping, but for some reason I kept missing turn-ins.  

This time, too, some of our favorite spots were really crowded—it seemed much more crowded than normal, in fact. We could not get in at all at Gooseberry Falls, so we ended up stopping at Split Rock Lighthouse to use the bathroom.

In the Split Rock Lighthouse parking lot we had what I shall dub the “Long-horned bug Incident.” In which, when I tried to shoo at long-horned beetle out off the window, it decided to fly INTO the car. This set Shawn off in full icky-icky-GET-IT-OFF-ME panic mode that involved a shriek so loud that it turned heads in the parking lot. I had to tell a concerned passing couple “just a bug!” as I scooped it off Shawn’s skirt into my hands. From there, I carefully got our bug friend on to the roof. (It had very sticky feet! It was slow moving and fun to handle?) 

No long-horned beetles were harmed in the making of this comedy of errors. 

We were getting frustrated this trip, however, because we usually have at least one amazing experience and, while the bug incident was funny, the whole trip was feeling more annoying than fun.

Then, on a whim, we turned into Sugarloaf Cove, which is before Taconite Harbor as you head north on 61. This was our trip’s treasure!
 
Somehow I took a picture of the cove and missed the signature rock. Alas.
Image: Somehow I took a picture of the cove and missed the signature rock. Alas.
 
There is an interpretative center that is at the end of a mile long loop that takes you down to where you can see the sugar cube shaped rock that is at the cove’s tip. We tried to stop at the center, but it was closing down for the day. The hike was just what our family needed.

A dark, narrow path disappearing into a wooded forest.
Images: A dark, narrow path disappearing into a wooded forest. 
 
We rolled into Bearskin Lodge around 7pm. The Lodge had warned us in advance of major construction in Grand Marais, so we were able to successfully navigate around it, painlessly.  By chance, Mason had suggested we pack some pulled pork that was a “heat it up and eat it” meal. Perfect for after a long day on the road and a lot of hauling of luggage into the cabin. 
 
Now we settle in.  On Sunday we drove to Grand Marais and saw a big grey wolf on the road. She trotted in front of us for a good mile before finally deciding to disappear back into the woods. We have NEVER seen a wolf up here before. Shawn missed it, since she wasn't feeling up to the trek into town... and now deeply regrets it.  

This morning on our canoe ride we saw something weasel-like running along the shoreline. A mink or some variety? A river otter? We have no idea, it was gone too fast. 

The Lodge here has wifi, so I will try to update from time to time. But, from here on out it's a lot of walks in the woods and canoe rides. I am trying to organize my family into checking out a few of the more "destination" places nearby, like "Devil's Kettle." We'll see if I can get my "indoorsy" family that motivated. 

We bought three boxes of books, so.... 50/50.
lydamorehouse: (Default)
Luck is a funny thing to determine.

In the pouring rain, as we headed out to our family vacation on the Gunflint Trail, I found a penny. There’s a saying that goes: “Find a penny, pick it up; all day long, have good luck.” As a kid, I also understood that there was an unspoken corollary, it’s only REALLY good luck, if you find it face-up. The one I found was showing tails. What I have done since I was ten, is flip it over while it’s still touching the ground, and then pick it up.

Is that good luck or not?

We had rain most of the way to Duluth. Because it was Grandma’s Marathon, we decided to go up a kind of back way that involved highway 61 and a bunch of meandering. Other than the persistent rain that dogged us, it was a pleasant drive.

In Duluth, while trying to skirt around downtown the car started making A NOISE. No one ever likes hearing car NOISES, but when you’re on the very first leg of a two-week trip that’s going to involve a lot of driving? We pulled over and considered our options. Luckily, Shawn has a lot of data on her phone, so we were able to discover a repair place that was open… several miles back.

With much reluctance and a lot of holding back tears of despair (and a couple of wrong turns), we found the repair place. Miraculously, it was attached to a Ford dealership and not at all busy. They said they could perform a break check (which is what the creaking NOISE initially sounded like) in fifteen minutes.

The repair shop was across the parking lot from a DSW and a Barnes & Noble. Seeing that, I sent my wife and son off to their two favorite shopping experiences and sat down in the ‘lounge’ to watch Disney’s “Hunchback of Notre Dame” which was playing on the TV, a show I have never seen, because I tend to avoid all musicals like the plague.

Minutes later, we get the prognosis: sorry, lady, your instincts are wrong. It’s not the breaks. The breaks are in great shape.

Even though that was good news, in a way, I was still leery of driving into the ‘no services’ great north woods with an unidentified undercarriage creak. I asked them if they wouldn’t mind a quick check of the underside. They were happy to.

More singing hunchbacks.

After they drove the car themselves, they determined, particularly given how loaded down with supplies our car was, it was probably struts. Bad news, since that’s a big, many hour repair; good news, because none of the mechanics thought that the NOISE was that bad and were willing to recommend that we could drive many hundreds of miles before we needed to have the work done. In other news, we could go on our way, so long as we took the car in at our earliest convenience.

They charged us nothing. Zero dollars and no cents.

Good luck or bad luck?

We’d called ahead to let Bearskin Lodge know that were were on our way, but delayed. They said they’d leave the door to our cabin open and we could come in any time, even after midnight, and we could check in in the morning.

With the time crunch gone and, even though we all felt a little frazzled from the unexpected repair detour, we were determined to enjoy the rest of the trip north.

As soon as we left Duluth, the sun came out.

Superior kicked up a ton of fog/mist, but, in large patches, we had brilliant weather. We have a favorite agate hunting beach, Flood Bay, and we stopped to do a little rock sifting. Both Shawn and Mason found agates, something none of us has ever done on this beach, despite it being famous for its agates.


two people rock hunting

We also stopped at Gooseberry Falls, which we tend to stop at every year. I discovered that they sold international stamps--and then later realized I forgot ALL my international addresses. Another good luck/bad luck moment.

gooseberry falls

Another first for this trip: Split Rock Lighthouse! Shawn, being the state archivist of Minnesota, was able to get us in free, which made the experience even better. The view was fantastic.



At this point, however, we started to get a little anxious about arriving before dark, so we skipped several of our usual favorites and headed straight for Grand Marais and the Gunflint Trail.

We saw a ton of deer this trip. At least one turkey hen crossed the road in front of us.

Was it a lucky trip? Yeah, I’d say, in the end, it was.
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
When my nephew Jonathan was younger he tried to convince us that Canada didn't exist. It as a running gag for him forever--the kind where occasionally, I'd be, like, "Are you joking?" and he'd continue his serious rant about how it's all a government plot.

I, however, now have photo documentation that Canada exists.

Because, seriously, who would doctor a photo to make it seem like the highway signs all wear crowns.

IMG_9150

Honestly, Shawn and I were actually unaccountably charmed by the royal highway signs and spent a significant part of our trip to Thunder Bay cooing over them. I also pointed out to her that if I robbed her, I was pretty sure that would make me a highwayman (well, highwaywoman, but the Roaches never sang about that.)

I also apparently am the worst at answering border patrol questions. I've been long schooled by the thought (something I saw on some cop show or other a zillion years ago) that if someone asks you if you have a watch, you look at your wrist and answer the question actually asked, i.e., "Yes/No, I [don't] own a watch," full stop, despite the inclination of most people to offer the time.

Shawn says that makes me sound suspicious. And it probably does. But, the border patrol let us through, anyhow, since I'm both suspicious and silly. Where did you come from?" "St. Paul." "Where are you headed?" "Thunder Bay." "How long will you be there?" "Overnight." "You came all the way from St. Paul to visit Thunder Bay for one day?" (he asked incredulously.) Shawn said at this point she was attempted to lie and point out that we felt there was a SIGN telling us to go (because OMG the Thunder Bay attraction billboards on 35 before Duluth were LEGION, though we do have them to thank for remembering to go back for our passports,) but I ended up mentioning that we just kind of wanted to go to Canada, a foreign country, as part of our honeymoon. This, of course, made the border guard shake his head like we were insane. I kind of wished I'd added, "Because, you know, we can't afford Paris. So Thunder Bay seemed like a good alternative."

Because he would have laughed.

I have to admit that we enjoyed the trip up to Thunder Bay more than the town itself. We ended up going to a Tim Robbins for breakfast on the day we left. I'd been hoping to go back to the Starbucks we spotted on the way in, but Shawn saw the Tim Robbins and told me she'd always wanted to go to one after reading about them in a Canadian murder mystery series. I can't deny a request like that, can I? The coffee was awful, but the donuts were fantastic.

We spent much of our time in Canada being ugly Americans. I was also inordinately charmed by the money. I'd gotten a 20 Canadian dollar bill at the bank before we left for Bearskin, and we broke that at the hotel's front desk so we could buy a bunch of Canadian candies in the vending machine. Having loonies in my pocket always amuses me far more than it should.

I also chatted up our hotel waiter about the World Cup. He, of course, was far more of a hockey fan, and didn't actually know if Canada was playing in the Cup (they're not.) But I kept telling Shawn that the way we knew we were in a foreign country was that people actually had the World Cup on the big screen TV in the main lounge. This would never happen in the US. It'd be Fox News or something awful.

We also saw Canadian Canada Geese, which also tickled me unaccountably.

Yes, I really am this easy.

On the way up, we stopped at Pigeon Falls/Grand Portage to look at the waterfall:

IMG_9147

It was drizzling this day so the path to the waterfall was a little treacherous because they'd built a wheelchair accessible one that had nice wooden bridges and such... but they got really slippery in the light rain. At any rate, it was amazing.

The trip back home was also drizzly and Lake Superior put on quite the show for us with crashing waves and white caps. I tied to get a picture of its majesty, but this doesn't do the lake justice:

IMG_9155
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
Other than a stop for food (at a McDonald's, I think) we continued the rest of the way to Bearskin Lodge without stopping. We talked about places we wanted to go on the way back: Iona's Beach and the Split Rock Lighthouse (which I have never seen). But, we were starting to get anxious to arrive before the sun completely went down.

We got there around seven and checked in. Bearskin Lodge is about thirty-miles up the Gunflint Trail and pretty much delineates the "Last Homey House." There are flush toliets, running water, and showers in the cabins. You can gave motor boats on parts of East Bearskin Lake, but the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA) is just around the bend. A lot of people rent a cabin at Bearskin but use it as a place to take off from and come home to. We like to just call it "home" and do very short trips into the wilds.

Each cabin comes with its own, private dock. Inside are all the amenities including a kitchen (we packed all the food we'd need since the nearest store is MILES/hours away) and a fireplace. This time we took full advantage of the fireplace. It got very chilly late at night, so the fire was functional as well as fun.

Here's a blurry picture of me roasting marshmallows for our champaign and S'mores honeymoon feast (yes, you read that right. We had champaign and S'mores for our honeymoon):

IMG_9073

Here's a better one of Mason doing the same thing (you can kind of see the main room of the cabin in this shot, too):

IMG_9071

We had for the most part really good weather. As we left at the end of the week, Bob, the owner, told us we'd hit the "weather jackpot" and I think he was right, especially since we've come home to days and days of seemingly unending rain. While we were up there, both Shawn and Mason managed to get sunburned. For reasons of Bizzaro-World, I think, I managed to be the one who remembered to reapply my sunscreen early and often. I am a bit browner, but I managed to not get scorched. To be fair, I may have gotten burned if I'd brought more than one book to Bearskin, because this is what my family did most nice days (which is to say, sit on the dock and read):

IMG_9074

I love to read, but I'm bad at it. I'm easily distracted partly because reading has always been a bit of a chore for me thanks to a mild case of dyslexia. Plus, I'm that person. Last time we were at Bearskin, Shawn teased me because I was always the one up at 6 am ready for a hike deep into the underbrush. At the time Modern Family had just had its Hawaii special episode and there was a funny bit about the two dads and how one of them preferred to relax and sip Mai-tais and the other wanted to visit the obscure lavender farm that had all 50 varieties of lavender. I was the lavender dad; Shawn was the Mai-tai dad.

Mason, too. He could read all day.

But here's my dock queen in her element:

IMG_9070 copy

Okay, I think that's it for tonight. My internet has been very come-and-go thanks to all these storms we've been having so any more pictures might break it. More tomorrow.

Also, if you're curious how my class went today, the answer was very well. My lecture started out a bit rough, but I could see it hit some of the students because I watched their gears turn and eyes light up and suddenly people had things they wanted to share. I love moments like that. Plus, we had this one as well: http://tatehallaway.blogspot.com/2014/06/the-dragon-of-awkward.html.
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
I've gotten our trip a bit out of order already, because we actually stopped at the historical marker for the Buchanan Settlement (12 miles from Duluth) before we got to Two Harbor's break wall. According to our guide book, this is the sight of a town that has since disappeared--a Minnesotan ghost town, if you will.

Honestly, we didn't even see any part of the remaining town. What impressed us was the beach that was just a hop down from the historical marker:

IMG_9026 copy

It was our first real up-close-and-personal with Lake Superior. As you can see, it was a gorgeous day. The sun was bright and the water and the sky were nearly the same color.

IMG_9024

It'd been a long trip to this point. Duluth isn't all that far away, maybe three hours (?), but we'd had to turn back after we'd gone a half hour from the cities. Shawn had forgotten the passports. She only remembered them because we kept seeing sign after sign for Thunder Bay and we'd made a special point of getting Mason a passport so that we could travel to Canada on our last day of our honeymoon. So, it was a half hour to "oh sh*t!", a half hour laughing at ourselves back home, a quick call to Bearskin to warn them we might be late for check-in, and then a half-hour to get back where we'd started.

As the driver, I could have been irritated, but I knew that, like the last time Shawn and I and Mason had done this north shore trip, we'd be doing a lot of stops at overlooks, waysides and attractions along the way.

Next up was, as I already posted Twin Harbors break wall. Then, we went on to Flood Bay, a spot we'd enjoyed last time around. It's supposedly some of the best agate hunting along the north shore, but I'll be honest you. I wouldn't know an agate in the rough if it walked up and introduced itself to me. Luckily, the beach just has cool rocks. Tons and tons of Superior flattened, time worn, awesome looking rocks. Shawn found some "sea glass" (which Superior produces, even though it's a lake) and Mason found a rock with a perfect hole in the center of it--a fairy spyglass. He's been wearing it as a necklace since.

Here's what Flood Bay looks like:
IMG_9050

Our guide book says "agate picking is good for the soul" and I have to agree. We often spend a huge amount of time sitting on this beach sifting stones. It's just... relaxing.

IMG_9049

Much, much more to come, but I'm going to stop here again. Today, the other things I did was have a lovely critique session with my Loft students. It ended up taking the entire class, but I think that the students got a LOT out of it. Tomorrow we only have one person to critique, but I think that will make up for the lack of lecture today.

Also, it's Wednesday so, Mason and I did our usual podcast silliness. This one was lucky number 13, and I felt it was a lot of fun... see what you think.

https://mangakast.wordpress.com/2014/06/18/lucky-thirteen/

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