
Image: illuminated plum blossoms in Suzuka Forest Garden, Suzuka, Mie Prefecture, Japan.
Because I injured my back awhile ago, I have been sleeping less well. (No worries, though, I am very clearly on the mend and I'm supplementing with some rest during the day and exercises to keep limber.) Rather than let that time go to 'waste' and to distract myself, I've been going a lot more
HeyGo tours than I normally do. (Again, just for the new folks, HeyGo is a livestream touring company which I recently discovered.) By chance, last night I was up at 4:30 am CST / 6:30 pm in Japan. Erika was touring
The Suzuka Forest Garden.Because Suzuka is in a mountain range, Erika's signal was a bit choppier than usual, but we had a lovely half hour stroll among the illuminated plum trees. By chance, we came across a wedding photo shoot in progress.

Image: The bride in white and groom in hakama among the plum blossoms.
Going backwards in time, on Sunday, I went with the new tour guide, David, who is a Canadian who has been living in Japan for the last twenty years. He took us to Kiyomizu Temple in Kyoto. You may recognize it from this iconic shot.

Image: Kiyomizu's main temple on an overcast day, through the not-yet-blooming cherry trees.
One of the cool, "did you know?" facts about
Kiyomizu Temple is that not a single nail was used in its construction. Dave suggested that the construction method was an import from Korean, which I have not independently verified. A quick internet search brings up mixed results, so I will take that with a grain of salt.
Regardless, the thing I found the most fascinating about Kiyomizu was that despite this being a Buddhist temple, there is a love shrine (a Shinto shrine) on the same grounds.

Image: Torii gate INSIDE the temple grounds... the old god cohabitating with the new
This is
Jishu Shrine is dedicated to the god
Okuninushi no Mikoto, sometimes called "The Cupid of Japan." While we were there we watched several high school girls attempting to walk with their eyes shut between the two sacred stones. The idea being if you can do this, your true love will become yours. You are allowed to have guidance, but if a friend aids you, they have to pledge to help guide the love between the two people involved as well.

Image: the sacred stone of Jishu shrine
I find this fascinating, because I feel like having a Shinto shrine inside a Buddhist Temple is generally fascinating. I doubt the Kiyomizu Temple is alone in sharing its grounds with an old, indigenous god, but I feel like the Western equivalent would be wandering into a high Catholic church and finding a section randomly dedicated to Cernunnos, complete with an altar and offerings--which I mean.... I have told you about the
white stag in my grandparent's Catholic church right? This is an actual stain glass window,, just to the left of the main altar, with the whole Christ as white, horned stag that kind of gave me pause when I looked at it while watching the priest circle my grandmother's coffin THREE times, with incense. (Three being the trinity, but of course also a very pagan number, being the Maiden, Mother, Crone.)
I mean, yes, back to my point. This might be the most apt metaphor, since there is no question that when the Roman church proselytized to the Britons and the Irish, they clearly sort of looked the other way when the newly converted pagans insisted on continuing the maypole tradition. Likewise the church actively adopted the idea the rabbits were somehow related to Christ's return and not say, a longstanding symbol, of the Goddess and fertility. Likewise, they just straight up let Jesus be the Horned God.
And so, I imagine it is, with
Shintoism and
Buddhism in Japan. Still, it feels kind of brazen? Like, the popularity of this love shrine was fascinating to me, coming from a place here in the West that is far more insistent that we separate our pagan roots from our dominant, far more modern religions. I had long known that many Japanese folks consider themselves a combination of Shinto and Buddhist, but this was the first time I saw just how COMBINED that practice has been from the beginning.
As we left Kiyomizu Temple, Dave took us through a massive graveyard.

Image: a cemetery in Kyoto, just outside of Kiyomizu Temple.
This was also relevant to my interests because my Japanese pen pal recently asked me about family graves in America. I had to explain that we kind of do, but we kind of don't have family graves. They don't look like these, that's for sure. There are some? Here in America, if you do a lot of hanging out in graveyards, like I do, one can see the occasional monument in the US with some family name on it, surrounded by smaller plaques of various individuals.
Each one of these slabs that you see above is likely a whole family since the majority of bodies are cremated in Japan. We also don't rent our graves; we buy the land, the plot, outright. This came up because Eiko and her husband are considering abandoning their family grave because it is
getting too expensive to maintain and with her daughter (who I believe is her only child) in America, there's no reasonable expectation of passing the costs to the next generation.
I also had to explain that my personal ethnic culture doesn't really do grave visits, either. At least nothing codified, like
Bon. I did explain that there are some Americans, however, who do have traditional holidays where grave visitation is part of the celebration, like
The Day of the Dead and others.
And, of course, let's not lie. The first place I saw a cemetery like this was in
Bleach.
Earlier on the same day, Sunday, I visited
Hiraoka Shrine in Higashiosaka, Japan with another "new" tour guide, Kendra. Kendra is a lovely young woman from the UK.

Image: Hiraoka Shrine, Osaka Prefecture, Higashiosaka, Japan
This walk was nice because it had just rained and so everything was so very green, a color that crave this time of year. Legend has it that this shrine is so old that it was dedicated before the first Emperor of Japan took the throne. There are apparently three gods associated with this shrine, including
Ame-no-Koyane who seems to have been instrumental in folktale reminiscent of Persephone, in which a storm god frightened Amaterasu into a cave and her light disappeared from the world. He performed a ritual of prayer to the sun that brought her back. So, seems like an important guy this time of year.
Then on Thursday, we took a nice stroll through
Kiba Park in Tokyo with Erika just to look at some early blooming cherry trees.

Early blooming cherry trees along the canal in Tokyo
On Wednesday, I was with Dave in Kyoto again, looking at the plum blossoms in a park with a view of Osaka Castle.

Image: plum trees with Osaka Castle in the far distance.
And, finally a nice close up of the plums in bloom...

Image: plum blossoms
All and all a great bunch of trips. It was just what my body needed to help heal.