lydamorehouse: (Bazz-B)
Yesterday was a lot of driving. I didn't end up posting anything last night because we didn't stumble in the door until after 8:30 pm (we left Rapid City at 7:30 am. Now, there is a time change in there where we lose an hour, but still that's a LOT of hours on the road.)

We did some classic stuff. We stopped both at Wall Drug and the Corn Palace.

the corn palace


We started to see a few more families on the road at Wall Drug, but Mitchell could have been a ghost town. Shawn and I both remarked at how several store fronts were closed and/or empty in Mitchell. It's June. This should be the beginning of the tourist season for them, I'd have thought. We were there right at noon and I had a BLT from the one place we found to eat. That was the other thing, the 'historic' downtown didn't have a lot of places to get food. You'd think it would be more like the other tourist towns we travelled through, like Cody, which is just lined with diners and burger joints and pizza places. Something for everyone, as they say. All of that interspersed with trinket shops.... but no, they seemed to have department stores and... furniture? Not something you're going to haul the rest of the way across country with you.

This actually made me wonder if the over-the-road tourism is down in this part of the country. Okay, well, a quick Google tells me that my anecdotal sense is WAY OFF. Apparently, tourism numbers are up, according to the South Dakota Tourism Industry Information for 2016.

Maybe we were just lucky? Because we planned this trip so early into summer vacation?

I don't know. Interestingly, Wikipedia tells me that the largest draw to South Dakota is actually the Sturgis Motorcycle rally. Maybe that's the thing that's shifted? The demographics of the people traveling across country? We certainly saw a ton of motorcycles all throughout our visit both to South Dakota and to Yellowstone.

Also, I'm super curious why so many of my fellow travelers were white. It wasn't 100%--but there was a shocking sea of white faces waiting for the geysers to blow. Why is that, I wonder? Or is this another anecdotal misinterpretation of mine? I couldn't easily find a demographic statistic for the visitors to Yellowstone, though I did see that 2016 was a record-breaking year for them. So what do I know?

We did stop at the Minute Man Missile Site (Delta-09). That was kind of spooky cool. There was a fence around the site that had this sign:

cows out of missile site

It says, "Help us keep cows from entering this area. Please close chain as you enter and exit." There's a lovely little center icon of a big red no symbol over a cow.  

One of the missiles is preserved:

missile in launch pad

As a kid of the 1980s, I found this very chilling, frankly.  Mason looked at us and said, "And how do you think I feel, knowing that 45 has the launch codes?"  


Right.  So, that left us all feeling a bit... freaked out.

Otherwise, I have to say that the thing I'm noticing now that we're home is that I still have my tourist eye on everything.  I kind of wished that I'd had my camera this morning when I went for coffee because I had a sudden yen to photograph the neat old houses that are in the Cathedral Hill neighborhood. Maybe this is something I'll have to start doing as an antidote for all the depressing politics.

I thought about going out to Pride today but I just couldn't muster the thought of fighting crowds after all of the fighting crowds at Yellowstone and whatnot. Good news: I'll be gay all year 'round.

lydamorehouse: (ichigo hot)
 Originally, we'd planned to spend three days here in South Dakota, using Rapid City as our "home base." We decided today to cut it short. Our family is just plain tired of the road.  There's a ton to see here, but today proved that we're pretty close to saturated with "scenery."  Tomorrow will be our last full day here, then we will do the huge drive home.

This morning we let ourselves sleep in. With the time zone difference (we're in Mountain Time)  that really only meant until about 7:30 or so. Then, after fueling up on the hotel breakfast, we headed down 79 for Hot Springs and the Mammoth Site.  79 is not the most scenic, but Shawn snapped a picture.  You can't tell from this picture, but it really looked like it was going to rain on us.  A huge dark cloud loomed in the west.  

South Dakota hills

However, when we got to the Mammoth Site, we had a great time.  The site itself is interesting because it's a working paleontology dig.  When we were there, in fact, we saw people excavating.  At first, we thought it was going to be a bust because we had to buy a ticket for a tour that didn't start right away and they told us to "enjoy the gift shop." By the time the tour started, Mason was muttering about capitalism.  But, we had an amazing tour guide. He could not have been more than 12? Maybe 13?  He looked younger than Mason, but he did a phenomenal job. He was incredibly knowledgable.  

Plus, we got to see mammoth bones!

mammoth skull with tusks

I learned that there are actually mammoths other than woolly mammoths.  Apparently, the majority of those found at this site are of a kind known as Columbian mammoths.  Also, we aren't supposed to call these fossils because they have not turned to stone.  They're actually just dried bone.

There were also a ton of other animals that were discovered in this sinkhole, including another extinct mega-fauna, the short-faced bear.

short-faced bear skeleton

I have to admit that since Mason was very much focused on the Cambrian Period, I never learned that much about the age of mammals. I didn't know that llama used to roam here, as well as some kind of now extinct camel, something called a camelop. That's pretty cool stuff. 

We left the museum pretty enthused for the rest of our day.  I have to say, too, though we didn't get any pictures of it, Hot Springs seemed like a  neat town. I sort of regret not exploring it a bit more. There was a Pioneer Museum that we could have checked out, and a very cute downtown made mostly out of red sandstone.

Instead we drove up 385 toward Wind Cave National Park.  We didn't have any intention of actually going into Wind Cave.  What I wanted from the park was prairie dogs!  I love prairie dogs.  If I had a fursona, I think it would be a prairie dog. I mean, look at them. They fat, sort of cute, a bit territorial, social, and enthusiastic.

prairie dog town!

I literally could have spent the rest of the day watching the prairie dogs popping around, zipping from hole to hole, and chirping at things that annoy them.


As we were cruising through the park at low-speed and my family was getting really tired of me happily chirping, "Oh! More prairie dogs! Let's stop!!" we spotted a group of pronghorns on the side of the road.  Perhaps you already know this, but I was able to wow my family by telling the that the "antelope" of the song, "Home on the Range" with the line "where the deer and the antelope play" is actually referring to the pronghorn.

pronghorns, America's antelope

I really did not expect to see pronghorns in the wild on this trip.  Just as I did not expect bears.  We also saw what we figure was a marmot sitting on a fence post in Wyoming. 

From this park, we'd hoped to cross over into Pringle and head up towards Custer, but... we were caught in a time loop and could not escape the buffalo.  Seriously, we must have circled the interpretive center three times trying to find our way out.  However, we did see this lovely buffalo a lot:

buffalo in wind cave national park

Thanks to the compass that is built into our car and a very helpful park ranger in the interpretative center we managed to escape the gravity well of Wind Cave.

Custer, of course, is a tourist trap of a town.  We got out there, though, because we were all getting really kind of hangry and I needed to pee. Shawn was really, really, REALLY done with crowds, though, so finding a place to eat that wasn't wall-to-wall tourists was hard.  We managed to find a sit-down place that had decent food and we were all in a much better mood after chatting with our server, Joseph, who was from Tennessee originally and sort of found himself stuck in Custer, having been brought here as an army brat.

Besides getting food into our stomachs, the smartest thing we did was peel off 385 and head down Sheridan Lake Road toward Rapid City. Hardly anyone was on that road and it was GORGEOUS.

black hills with rocks and trees

Having seen pronghorn, however, we started to really hope for elk.  At one point, our entire family spontaneously attempted an elk call, which was sort of a terrifying bellowing groan in our estimation.  :-)

Sheridan Lake Road

As we were driving along here, we spotted a pullout and decided that what this burnt out family really needed was an hour in the woods just sitting and reading and exploring.  There was a small pat that led us to a stream that had a ton of small fish and crawdads.  

Mason dipping his toes in the stream

my big fat butt in the river

I managed to drop my phone in the water.  Ironically, I'd been very careful and taken it out of my pocket and set it in my shoes, but when I sat down to put my shoes back on... bam! It tumbled into the water.


However, I managed to turn it off right away and it's apart, drying right now. I have faith it will recover. Otherwise, Tracfones are cheap. This is why no one buys me a smartphone. :-)

Tomorrow, we're going to hop up early to see Mount Rushmore before the crowds and then do the wildlife circle in Custer State Park.  Then, finally, we shall head for the home fires!
lydamorehouse: (??!!)
One thing we've been noticing as we've been going along is how few families seem to still do this whole road trip thing. We seem to be throwbacks, dragging our child across the country. Do people still do this?

I should say, clearly, people still do, but they all seem to be retirees, no children. There were hardly any groups that included children, unless they were Native American. We saw several Native American families all traveling together.  (Also, the majority of tourists in these places seem to be white.)

Today, however, was one of the few days I regretted this idea. We saw some pretty amazing things, which I'll get to in a moment, but we spent a lot of time on the road. Worse, we kept hitting road construction that was more than a slowdown through some orange cones. We'd come to a full stop and then have to wait for a "Follow Me: Pilot Vehicle." This was frustrating as heck, though occasionally it meant that I had time to frame a kind of lovely-in-its-starkness photo.

fence post in Wyoming

I call this, "Lonely Fence Post."

We also legitimately came across sections of road in Wyoming that had been sloppily paved over and a road sign that read, "Road Damage." My family and I spent some quality time trying to figure out if it was more expensive to print up the sign and mark the road or to actually fix it. Obviously, Wyoming Department of Transportation figured the signs were cheaper.

The interstate driving was really, really dull through much of the state. I kept saying, "Well, there are some horses. We must still be in Wyoming." A lot of it looked like this, only more desolate:

Wyoming never ends

The nice surprise was the Big Horn Mountains. Shawn had done some research (naturally) and found us a highway that was rated safe for RVs. Shawn had found a blog and a video of people in an RV driving over one of these stretches (maybe Beartooth?) and we kept repeating what the blogger had said anytime we went down any grade as steep as 7 percent, which was, "My wife was on the floor... crying." (Their experience was apparently much steeper and their brakes were burning out.) We didn't have anything like that, but it was pretty exciting driving through this:

Big Horn Mountains

We would pass signs that would tell us which era of rocks were exposed. There was a lot of "Pre-Cambrian" and "Lower Cretaceous." At one point, after a particularly long and arduous "Follow Me" truck construction zone, we decided to stop at a roadside diner called "The Meadowlark Resort," just outside of the town of Ten Sleep. The diner had a poster of Robert Taylor as Walt Longmire from the TV show Longmire/books by Craig Johnson. Apparently, the nearby town of Buffalo was an inspiration for the novelist. The only reason that was particularly striking to us is that Shawn and I, who loved the show, had started thinking about the fact that the landscape must be very similar to the faux Absaroka County that Longmire is the supposed sheriff of.

Big Horn Mountains

It was good to sit and have a real meal, something we've been neglecting this whole trip. We've been subsisting on road food and things we've packed like trail mix, chips, beef jerky, and granola bars. A real omelet made by an actual short order cook was just the ticket. It probably added a half hour to our day, but I regret nothing.

Except all that interstate driving. The interstate was hideously boring. I kind of wanted to claw my eyes out after driving for hours and hours along the interstate. The only good thing about the interstate was that the speed limit was 80.

Eventually, we got to Devil's Tower. Or, at least the turn off for Devil's Tower. Devil's Tower was made famous for my entire generation by the mashed potato scene in "Close Encounters of the Third Kind." There was, of course, another "Follow Me" truck on the way to Devil's Tower. Also, the guidebooks lie. This is not a quick jaunt off the highway, this is a legitimate detour WAY THE HECK OUT. However, it is classic:

Devil's Tower

The gift store would sell you aliens.

Also, because I could no longer take the Interstate, I insisted on a detour through "ANYTHING PRETTY." So we took off on 14-A towards the Black Hills National Forest. This also took us through Sundance, Sturgis, Leads, and Deadwood.

Sundance City Limits sign

The Black Hills National Forest was really amazing, but Mason was starting to lose it in the back and said, "OMG, it's just more rocks and trees. Shoot me now!"

Black Hills

As you can see, he's not wrong. We were getting pretty punchy by this point, too, and Shawn was snapping photos by sticking the camera out of our sunroof.  We got some surprisingly good shots that way.

black hills

Then, finally, we made it to the hotel!  I was super-ready to be here. Our only concern at this point is, do we really want to spend the next several days DRIVING AROUND???!!  Ask me tonight and my answer would be: no $%!@ing way.  I'm going to guess that tomorrow, I'll be all, "Pack up the car, we're on the road!"

We have to AT LEAST see Mount Rushmore.
lydamorehouse: (temporary incoherent rage)
 Shawn dragged us out of bed at 5:30 in the morning because she read that it's best to hit Yellowstone early in order to avoid the crowds.  Turns out there was another bonus, which was, morning is when the animals are the most active.  We've been staying at AmericInns the whole way and they have continental breakfast that isn't horrible. Cody, like Beulah, sports two coffee shops (possibly more, but two were easily seen from the main drag) and so I went out at 6 am to try to find a decent brew. I found someone who would make me a latte, but it was fairly awful. Tomorrow, I will try the Mudd Shack or whatever it was called.

It's about an hours drive between Cody and the east gate entrance to Yellowstone. We passed through mountain tunnels, which is always cool.  This is the reservoir made by the Buffalo Bill Dam.

on the way to yellowstone

The landscape up to Yellowstone was very similar to a lot of what we'd seen in Montana.  No trees and a lot of scrub leading up to rocky outcroppings.  Shawn and I both confessed that this was pretty much what we were afraid all of Yellowstone would look like (oh boy, were we WRONG.)  In fact, once we got to "cruising altitude," as it were, things looked a lot more like the landscape around Bearskin. Shawn said, looking out at all the pine trees lined up along the roadside, "This looks like home." (Grand Rapids, MN.)

Are we in Montana or Wyoming?

But this is Wyoming/Montana: scrubby.

We passed a lot of horse ranches, too.  I joked that where in North Dakota it was all, "I found a cow!" in Wyoming it's "I found a horse!"

Shawn had made a big deal about finding us a hotel room at all in Cody this time of year, and so any time we saw a "vacancy" sign on any of the dude ranch/hotels, we teased her saying, "Oh, sure, you couldn't find anything open! We could have stayed here and had pony rides!" Luckily, she's a good sport and used to us ribbing her.

Even before the official gate, we saw people pulled off to the side of the road.  This is what's known in the Yellowstone area as a "bear jam," aka the kind of traffic jam that happens whenever wildlife is spotted.

Here's what everyone was looking at:

buffalo in sage grass

I really love the contrast here between the brown/black of the buffalo and the silvery green of the sage brush.  This shot seems almost stereotypically Wyoming, don't you think? At first I worried that this big guy was sick being so far from a herd, but Shawn read that male buffalo are loners. Mason said he clearly saw that this fellow was male.

The flowers were really lovely.  There were pearly everlastings growing here too (which remind me of deep woods northern Minnesota):

pearly everlastings

One we were in Yellowstone proper, the road grade started getting significantly steeper.  I worried a lot about our new/used car, but it performed like a beauty.  Pretty soon there were snow caps in the distance.  We had to pull over to take a picture. (We tried selfies, but we kind of suck at them.)

Shawn and Mason with snow-capped mountains in the background.

We took a ton of pictures as we moved higher and higher into the mountains.  But here are a few of the more interesting shots we got:

Slyvin Lake

snow capped mountains at Yellowstone

top of the world

Then came the most amazing thing. We saw a traffic jam ahead and I jokingly said, "Hey, maybe there will be bears at this bear jam."  GUESS WHAT??!! THERE WERE BEARS.


A pretty good shot considering that Shawn (being non-suicidal) took this picture from inside the car, the window rolled down, with telephoto.  There were many more morons who were out of their cars, setting up tripods, and milling around.  It is possibly not obvious, but these two are GRIZZY BEAR CUBS.  The one in the foregrounds still has a bit of white baby fuzz.  There is a mama grizzly somewhere near and, unlike the stupids, we were long gone before she showed up.

We saw dumber people, though.

There was a whole contingent of stupid walking across a grassy plane towards a giant herd of buffalo.  Buffalo can run 30 mph.  People can not.  There were idiots with children doing that.


It does make me wonder how many people die from wildlife every year.  Especially since you can get great shots from inside your car. Like this:


And this:

buffalo herd

Then, we did what every tourist to Yellowstone must do. We went to visit "Old Faithful."  OMG. The visitor center near "Old Faithful" is a massive complex and it is ENTIRELY JAMMED WITH HUMAN BEINGS. I don't normally mind crowds, but I do not like being elbow-to-elbow with that many sweaty, impatient people.  Mason had the right idea. He put on his Moose Hat (which he picked up at the first gift shop) and read:

moose hat

But we didn't have to wait that long for the big eruption.  For all that, the actual geyser was nifty.  Mason and I managed to score some good seats right next to the walkway's edge.

old faithful erupting.

But our stop here was one of those times when no one knows what to do--should we try to eat here? Do we just grab cereal at the convenience store? Get in the car again and subsist on potato chips?--and we were all h-angry and hot.  Luckily, I had an epiphany in the bathroom and that was that when the guidebooks told us we needed to practice patience, they didn't mean on the road, they meant with each other.  So, we suffered through the long lines and got some real food. (Actually, I made my family find a seat and I waded through the food lines).  After that, we felt much better getting out of there and getting back in the car.  

We did decide, though, that if someone wanted a cheap version of Old Faithful, you could crush into the bathroom, let someone like me who has stinky farts let out a good gassy one, turn on the hot water faucet, and then everyone cheers. Because that's something that's never in any guidebooks: geysers STINK. They smell like sulfur, like rotten eggs. In fact, the whole "clean pine forest" smell up in Yellowstone has a whole undercurrent of "who farted?"

At any rate, after all that hassle, we decided, in fact, that we didn't need to see any more geysers. If there were a lot of people gathered to see a "site" that wasn't wildlife, we would just pass that site right on by, in fact.

I think we made a good choice. We did see these "painted pots" however:

painted pots

After that we mostly just pulled out in spots where there were hardly any people.  Thus, Mason got some time to contemplate nature on the Summer Solstice:

Mason and Yellowstone

The very last thing we did was look at the giant falls... that I've forgotten the name of.  Because you know what else I wasn't prepared for in Yellowstone? How BAD the signs are... and the maps.  I think a lot of tourists would be a lot less cranky if there were better signs directing people to places. But, we had to do a complete 180 at one point otherwise we would have missed these.  And, they were pretty darned spectacular, too:


That was Yellowstone.  From here, we turn east towards Mount Rushmore and home.... though it will still be a few more days on the road.

Right now, I'm off to avail myself of the hot tub. My shoulders are aching after all that white knuckle driving on the roads.  Going up had me worried about the engine, going down had me freaking out about the breaks.  I could use a massage, honestly.

Tomorrow? MORE DRIVING.  We go from here to Rapid City, hopefully going past Devil's Tower. 
lydamorehouse: (nic & coffee)
We got up bright and early this morning and headed west. Today was a day of heavy driving, not a lot of stopping, though we did manage a few. I made Shawn stop and take a picture of cows on our way out of Beulah, though. It was such a familiar sight that I had to have it immortalized.

cows on the hill (ND)

That's North Dakota to me, right there.

Ww stopped at a rest stop that overlooked Theodore Roosevelt National Park, aka the North Dakota Badlands. After we left that rest stop we lamented not taking a picture of the picture of the buffalo wandering around in front of the Interpretative Center. We did see a giant cow pie on the grounds, so we know that it was accurate that buffalo occasionally invaded the rest stop.

ND badlands

This picture doesn't really do the badlands justice. They're such weird places, actually.

As we entered Montana, we discovered that Shawn really does not like the landscape of Montana. "Alien," was what she categorized it as, and, "Dead." As the driver, I have to disagree. I found Montana fascinating. The colors are so different, everything is legitimately sage colored and the trees are replaced by scrub. It seems flat and uninteresting, but when you're driving, you become hyperaware that you're constantly going UP at a fairly steep incline.

But there's not a lot to look at, that's for sure. Here's typical landscape:

flat of Montana

You can see why they call it "Big Sky Country," though.

My family and I had a long discussion about "Big Sky" and what other mottos Montana could have used. Pretty much all of us were in agreement that really, if it were us, we'd advertise the fact that there are DINOSAURS bones everywhere. I'd have put "The Land of Dinosaurs!" on the license plates, but that's just me. When we were arguing about whether the landscape was interesting or ugly, I muttered, "Well, it's prettier than Indiana" and Mason thought that would make a good state motto, too: "Better than Indiana."

The thing about Montana is that for all the weird, scrubby flat stuff, occasionally stuff like this will randomly jut up out of the ground:

random rocks of Montana

This is Makoshika State Park. We stopped for the Interpretive Center which had some dinosaur bones in it. We wandered around a little bit, and I was kind of tempted to drive around in the rocks, but the woman in the center said there was only a couple of miles of paved road before it became unpaved switchbacks. So, yeah, no. Not with our car.

Mostly we didn't stop except to pee, but all the the rest stops there was this helpful sign:

sign for rattlesnakes

The only place we spent any really amount of time was at Pompey's Pillar. This is where Clark left some graffiti on a rock. There was a really nice set of stairs we climbed to see it and there was an elder tour bus there, so we didn't have to feel badly when we had to stop a lot to take rests. Pretty much at every perch were some nice older folks who admired Mason's hair and asked us where were from.  

Clark's graffiti

Here's a shot from above:

pompey's pillar

Then there was more driving... we saw mountains in the distance, but happy stayed between the pass all the way to Cody.

Tomorrow, Yellowstone!
lydamorehouse: (I love homos)
We planned one more day in Beulah, ND, mostly because we had hoped to get flieschkuekchle from the deli at the Beulah grocery store for dinner tonight. So we decided to bum around the area to see what could be seen. Plus, one of Shawn's relatives told us that there was actually a road up to Salem Sue and Mason got it in his head that if we'd touched Dakota Thunder (the giant buffalo), we ought to be able to say we'd also touched Salem Sue.

Looking at the map, we thought we planned ourselves a pretty decent day of it, and so we headed off bright and early to Lake Sakakawea. The trip took us back to Hazen, and, because the map didn't have a name marked on the road that looked like it took us to the lake, I stopped and asked for directions from the gas station employee. I asked him the best way and he said, "Head back toward Beulah at the next gas station and turn north." I showed him the map and said, "Here? But it has no name." He gave me a funny look and said, "Just go north. You'll hit the lake."

Apparently, roads don't need names if they go to the lake.

As we turned down that road, we discovered the Hazen cemetery, where some of Shawn's relatives are buried. We stopped to look around and Mason found a shed snake skin, from the size of it, it was probably a rattlesnake.

snake skin in the cemetery

He's holding it up, in the wind. It was a Very Blustery Day, as A. A. Milne might say. We actually decided to take the snake skin with us, and so we stuck it in a plastic baggy. It's the sort of thing that will go nicely on our altar.

On the road there, we had to stop for a family of ducks that made their way across the two lane highway. It was the first of many times that I hit the brakes suddenly for critters crossing the road. A TON of gophers dashed across the road (and one lost its life under our wheel, alas, despite my best efforts.) But, most of the things trying to cross made it. I made sure of that as best as I could.

The lake was fairly spectacular.

Lake Sakakawea

Floating in the breeze we saw a pelican. We also drove down to the boat landing and stuck our hands in the lake, just to say we had.

Then it was back on the road for the Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site. This is where I started pointing out cows. There are, in case you were wondering, a LOT of cows in North Dakota. In fact, in one of the brochures Shawn picked up at the Knife River site, we learned that for every one person, there are three cows. Pretty soon this became a running joke and I'd say, "Hey, everybody, guess what? I found some cows!" Many of the cows had calves, so part of the game (for me, at least) was looking for the babies.

I needed a game, because we drove around a lot.

We got out and walked around a lot at the Knife River Site, though. They have an interpreter center there with some history of the site. The village is notable because it's where Louis and Clark picked up Sakakawea, actually.  All that's left right now are depressions in the earth where the earth lodges once stood.  They had a reconstructed earth lodge out front:

earthen lodge at Knife River

There were miles of trails, but we took a short hike down to the water's edge.  The sun was bright and the air smelled AMAZING, mostly wild clover, I think. I told Shawn that I thought it smelled a little like laundry detergent, and I suspect that's not a coincidence.

ND fields

Knife River (ND)

From here we made a return trip to Salem Sue, the World's Largest Holstein. We found the road in this time and drove up a very narrow, winding hill.  It was actually fairly busy at the top of the hill, which made me wonder what people did if they met another car coming the other direction on that gravel road. Luckily we never found out.  The cow was there. She's still delightful.  I have no idea why this giant cow has charmed my family so much, but it totally did.

There was also a heckuva a view from up there.

Shawn in ND

I was also impressed with the scrubby wild roses growing on the hill around Salem Sue.  They reminded me of the roses I'd find growing near the railroad tracks in LaCrosse, WI, where I grew up.

wild roses

The next "destination" was the Enchanted Highway. When we planned this trip, I looked at the map and said, "Wait, The Enchanted Highway just stops? That seems dumb. Shouldn't we find a way so that we can come up it on our way home from somewhere?" Oh, good idea, Lyda.  TOO BAD IT MEANT HOURS OF DRIVING THROUGH PRETTY MUCH NOWHERE.  

We kept having to tell ourselves as we drove through towns like Mott ("Mott, the spot that god forgot" as Shawn's dad just to call the town he was born in), that our secondary motto this trip is, "The journey *is* the destination."  But, OMFG, I was tired of driving by the time we finally hit the beginning (or end) of the Enchanted Highway.  But, the bizarre statues were worth it in my opinion.

Interestingly, the only place we saw real, live pheasants crossing the road, was right before this statue:

giant pheasants on the Enchanted Highway in ND

(Mason is there for scale)

Weird fish sculpture

world's largest grasshopper

Some ominous weather started dogging us here at the giant grasshopper statue, but we managed to outrun it, by heading north. 

eye of saurian or geese in flight?

The official name for this one is "Geese in Flight" but I kept calling it the Eye of Sauron.  I think it looks like a giant eye on a hill.

The rest of the drive back to the hotel was a lot of me saying, "Hey, look, I found some cows."  We did, however, see a runaway llama, though. As we were headed along 200, I saw something galloping on the hill. I started to say, "Hey, a cow," but then my brain said, "No, not cow, horse? No... LLAMA!"  The llama was clearly on an unscheduled walkabout since it was being herded by a pick-up truck with its hazards flashing and an ATV.  That woke us up.  

This was outside of a town called "Zap," which made it all the more surreal and hilarious. 

We were pretty road punchy by the time we made it back to the hotel.  We'd hoped to catch that fleischkuekchle at the deli, but it turned out that it was closed. Worse, the only other restaurant in town that served them was also closed. Damn you, Sunday in a small town!  But we met up with Shawn's brother Keven (who was also in town for the reunion) at the DQ for dinner instead. A far cry from fleischkuekchle, but I was so hungry at that point (having only really eaten the road food we'd packed, which consisted of things like beef jerky and trail mix) I was happy with ANYTHING.

Now I'm going to collapse into bed and rest up for another long drive across the country to Cody, Wyoming!
lydamorehouse: (crazy eyed Renji)
How I know my spouse loves me?  Shawn researched all the coffeeshops near the hotels we'll be staying at during this trip.

Of course knowing where they are and knowing what they'll be like are two different things.  I went out this morning and checked out Javalicious, which I was originally excited to find because their Facebook page shows something that looks like it could be real espresso, complete with espresso art.  However, when I found Main Street Beulah, the coffee shop was closed.

main street, downtown Beulah, North Dakota

A very lonely street.  

A very sad and caffeine-deprived Lyda.

Luckily, Beulah has a surfeit of coffee shops, having a second one on 19th Avenue.  I set off for that down Central Avenue, mostly because I wanted to admire the town.  When Mason first saw Beulah, his impression was "suburb." He's got a point in that there's something about Beulah that doesn't feel terribly... established? The houses all look like the kinds of ramblers that were popular in the Midwest in the 1950s-1960s.  The lawns are wide and the houses all have the kind of suburban distances between them--which isn't terribly descriptive if you aren't familiar with American suburbs, but think: wide and open. Driveways that lead to two-car garages.  That kind of place.

It seems pleasant enough, though I'd never want to live here.

For one, the second coffee shop looks like this:

a shack that serves coffee

They also don't open on a Saturday until 9 am. They're not open at all on Sunday.  And their coffee was.... well, it was a step up from the hotel coffee, which is what I subsisted on until we headed to Hazen for the family shindig.  But, it was really only *one* step up. 

Sadly, I will have to be satisfied with this for another full day.

(And who knows what Cody, Wyoming will bring in terms of coffee!)

Our room at this hotel comes with an in-room jacuzzi-tub which I tried out this morning. It was... interesting.  For one, those things take FOREVER to fill (and I'm not terribly patient), and second, it turns out that if you don't fill it at least a full inch over the little nozzles, they will spray you IN THE FACE. Okay, that last part might have been dumb luck, but I swear the tub was out to get me.  

Then I spent a ton of time trying to figure out what to wear. Shawn had packed me a nice shirt, but when I put it on, it just felt... *shakes head*... it just wasn't right. Plus, I wanted to make a good impression on these people. I was pretty sure I was going to be the only lesbian they were ever going to knowingly meet, so I kind of felt like I had to represent. Luckily, I had packed a plaid shirt.  I mean right? If you're going to be the only lesbian they know, you might as well embrace at least one of the stereotypes!  

Honestly, I was pretty worried about how all this was going to go.  We had hours and hours we were going to be spending with these people and (I'm not making this up, I checked Wikipedia,) Hazen is 97.7% white. This is not a place comfortable with "diversity," you know?

But, well, if they judged us, they did it the classic Midwestern way: quietly and behind our backs. To our faces, everyone was nice.

That worked out, because what we were there for was for Shawn to reconnect to her mother's extended family.  The reunion was based around her uncle Bobby and his wife Chris's 60th wedding anniversary. The food was... well, it was free, so I probably shouldn't complain about it, but let's put it this way: the event took place in a literal church basement. Macaroni salad featured prominently. 

We have one more day here. We wanted to stay long enough to be sure to have the Hazen supermarket's fleischkeuckle and so we're going to spend the day tomorrow seeing some of the nearby sites, which include Lake Sakakawea, Garrison Dam, Dickinson Dinosaur Museum, and Knife River Indian Historic Site.  We will may also see a few of the sculptures on  Enchanted Highways, so that should be fun.
lydamorehouse: (writer??)
We took off from Saint Paul this morning around 8:30 am. The directions to Beulah, ND are as follows: take I-94 West, turn right at the sign for Beulah. I think for a lot of people this drive can be done in 8 hours, however, you have to factor into this that my family LIVES for roadside attractions.

LIVES for them.

We also stop at every single rest stop between here and there, just because. The very first rest stop we came to had a very unusual name:

Despite the name, this was a fine place to use the bathroom. It was also the first time we ran into a group that would follow us much of our trek out west: the Mission Possible people. They were a large group of teenagers, all in matching tee-shirts, and we can only assume they were probably some kind of church group. But, pretty much if we stopped, they were there (or were there shortly after we arrived.)

The next place we stopped was Fergus Falls, MN, at the Continental Divide marker. This is not THE Continental Divide, though it is a point that "separates water that flows into the Mississippi watershed with the one that goes into Hudson's Bay." There's a giant surveyor's telescope statue, a little open-air interpretive center (which happened to be inhabited by a family of barn swallows and their fledglings), and a huge tee-pee type structure:

mason at Fergus Falls, MN

Oh, as a bonus you can see Mason's new hair color.  Yeah, so that happened.  Mason wanted to do something radical before the trip, I think precisely because we're headed into Trump Country.  I think he wanted to make it absolutely clear that he was One of Those People. Anyway, I think he looks super-cool and was happy to pay for it.  

There was a really pretty bush there, though I'm not sure what it was: sweet pea?

flowering bush

The next place we stopped was Rothsay, MN.  Why Rothsay, you ask?  Well, it's the home of the world's largest booming prairie chicken.

booming chicken and Mason

Directly across the park, which you can see a hint of in this picture, is the Rothsay Public School, home of the... Tigers? I mean, I guess I can see why you might not want to name your high school team the "prairie chickens" because 'chicken' has bad connotations, but why not the "Boomers"?  Honestly, I could hire myself out to these people. 

Once we headed into North Dakota proper, we discovered a few things. The first of which is that there are NO SERVICES off any of the exits. Normally, on these kinds of road trips, one depends on getting gas at some station just off the exit.  Wisconsin is great for this. Anytime you see an exit, you're pretty much guaranteed gas, a toilet, possibly a McDonald's, as well. North Dakota? NOTHING. Worse, the roadside rests became fewer and further between. In Minnesota, you'd see a sign at each rest stop saying, "Next Rest Stop in ___ miles" and most of the time, it'd be 30 miles. We crossed the border into North Dakota, and suddenly the signs read, "Next Rest Stop in 69 miles."  

Which is how we ended up in Valley City, ND.

Because we pulled into the first rest stop we saw (which was in the center of the highway, so a left exit) and it was closed.  All the Mission Possible kids were there eating lunch, but we really, really needed to pee. I did snap off a picture of how FLAT North Dakota is, however:

flat with flat sauce

The very next town was Valley City, so we pulled in.  We thought our best luck for a place to pee was the Visitor's Center, which was quite a distance into to town.  It was a very weird little winding road that took us past a John Deere shop and several industrial looking places before we hit main street and this:

military plane?

Not exactly a friendly entryway to town... and then the signs to the Visitor Center seemed to point us into an empty parking lot next to a gas station.  In fact, I drove in and then drove back out again because it didn't seem right, but there was a sign saying "Visitor's Center" on a small little depot-like building off on the other side of the dusty parking lot.  Turns out the Center also doubled as the town's Department of Motor Vehicles. The parking lot was also kind of... odd. Someone had spay painted a very rough outline of where you should park with a helpful scrawl of "park here." I should have taken a picture of this because it was very amateur hour meets "Pennywise," if you know what I mean.  

But, the actual Visitor's Center was quite pleasant. They had a toilet, so I would have loved them even if they were terrifying. They had a little train history display and the carriage car of the Northern Pacific's superintendent (?), supposedly the only one still intact.They had a gift shop, so I bought a few postcards there to send to my various international friends.

Shawn's back has been hurting, so we decided to a little more walking around.  Just across the street was a little walking bridge over the river and so we strolled across that and back again.  

walk bridge

Back in the car, we watched a whole lot of nothing and NO SERVICES pass us by.  

Shawn confessed to really loving scanning the dial for music. No surprise we found a lot of country music, but then Shawn and I are actually fans of country & western so we were kind of happy when we came across 104.7 DUKE FM. We heard "Stand By Your Man" and "Vaya Con Dios, My Darling" and just a ton of "wow, I can't believe they're playing THAT." We passed many miles singing cheesy country songs. 

The next place of interest we were headed for was Jamestown, ND, home of the world's largest buffalo statue.  Shawn had previously only ever driven past the buffalo, which is visible from I-94, but since I accidentally turned into the first exit to Jamestown (in search of a toilet, what else?) we ended up checking out not only the buffalo itself, but also this tourist trap "frontier town."

world's largest buffalo

Shawn is 6'1" for scale.  

Also, for reasons known only to its sculptor, the buffalo is anatomically correct:
buffalo balls

I guess this is important to some.  Also, note the placement of the park bench. How many teenagers do you think take pictures touching the buffalo balls every year? Thousands, I'd bet.

In the field beyond is a buffalo preserve. We never saw the herd, which is a shame because there is (or, apparently, was) a very rare albino buffalo that's part of the herd called "White Cloud." It's unclear if her albino offspring or the other spontaneously born white buffalo is still there, but we saw no buffalo at all, so it didn't really matter.  Shawn has it on her trip bucket list to see buffalo in the wild. We did see a buffalo farm just outside of the Twin Cities, but Shawn claims that "doesn't count" because they were on a farm. 

Then there was more driving.  Lots an lots of driving.  

The next place we stopped was North Dakota's capitol, Bismarck. Shawn suggested that the capitol building itself was a must-see.  It totally was. Oh, and I forgot to mention that we dubbed this entire trip's motto:  "Might Be Worth a Detour"  If you can stop, stop!  That's what we figure.
capitol at Bismark

We went inside and took a look at the senate chambers.

senate chambers, bismarck ND

There were all sorts of cool art deco features, including these little seating nooks:
seating nooks in Bismarck capitol building

We hit a traffic jam outside of Bismarck that delayed us, which was frustrating because the next planned stop was OUR HOTEL ROOM in Beulah, ND.  We're spending the weekend here for Shawn's family's family reunion/wedding anniversary.  We'd hoped to make it in time to eat dinner at "the house," but between that construction and the construction delay we hit coming up the highway to Beulah, there was no way.

Oh, actually, we had to make a stop to see Salem Sue, the world's largest cow statue:

salem sue at a distance
Salem Sue close-up

As we waited for the construction delay, we did get to see the spectacular sight of a rainstorm coming across the great plains:

rain on the plains

Heckuva start to the trip, wouldn't you say?  From here it's a few days here in Beulah and then ON TO YELLOWSTONE.  Expect many, many more photos.

lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
I was really hoping to catalogue our trip to Washington, DC with photos, but the picture editor/attacher mechanism over here on LJ is still busted.  Your best bet to see all the pictures is going to be to scroll through:, which you should be able to do without being signed-up (though I don't know that for sure.)

Many apologizes.

It was a great trip, all and all.  While Shawn was stuck in endless meetings, Mason and I were power-tourists.  Our hotel was within walking distance of the zoo, so that was one of our first stops.  We spent two days exploring the museums on the Mall (our favorite was the Natural History Museum), took in a show at the Kennedy Center, saw the Library of Congress (Mason wept to think of 35 million books), the National Archives (where we saw the Constitution, etc.,) waved to the empty White House (apparently Mr. Obama has been on vacation too), saw all the various monuments, went all the way out the National Arboretum, attempted to kayak the Potomac (we couldn't find the boat rental), went to the Spy Museum, ate out, and generally learned to navigate the Metro like pros.

All in five days.

I'm pooped now and ready to be home and back to my usual things.

While we were away my Bloggin' for Books book arrived.  I ordered a book about how to become a comic book artist called Comic Book Art: Fundamental Tools and Techniques for Sequential Artists by John Paul Lowe, which I've pawed through and it's made me feel like the worst artist in the history of art.  I've been contemplating how to blog about this visceral and emotional reaction to what is essentially a text book. I wrote something up, but I'm not sure if it's a review or a whine about my life.  The sad thing is that I can't order another book until I review this one, so I'm going to have to figure something out.

Also a check came from my agent.  I'm apparently selling like gangbusters over at  The entire Garnet Lacey series is there and available, and, for whatever mysterious and awesome reason, is selling REALLY well.  Here's the first one:  You can listen to a sample for free.

On the flip side, I also got a rejection for a writing job I applied for.  It was for a game company called Choice of Games: They were looking for writers to write Choose Your Own Adventure style story games for them.  Technically, I failed to be good enough to pitch them, which I guess makes me even more of a doofus.  But, I blame myself.  They were looking for a 3 - 5 page sample of writing and I sent them the very first story I ever sold, "Irish Blood," because it's one of the few stories that's actually short enough for me to send them something complete.  I'm still immensely proud of that story and I thought it best to show something with a beginning, middle, and ending.  I still think the story is awesome.  It was awesome enough to be reprinted in the Best of Dreams of Decadence not that long ago, after all.  But, it's about a fairy and a vampire, and it's possible the gaming folks felt that kind of story was very 'been there, done that.'

Who knows.

It would have been an interesting gig, had I gotten it.  But, it also would have been a LOT of work.  A friend of mine who applied with me is still in the running and I'll be curious how the process goes if she makes it past this hurtle.  (Fingers crossed!)  I have to admit I'm fascinated by the directions in which writing and writer/reader interactions are headed.  I'm starting to have real fun over at WattPad, and I see this fan-fiction model as a really fascinating experiment in continuing writing outside and beyond traditional New York publishing houses.  What is writing going to be like in the future?  I suspect it's going to be much more like this, because most people look for writing on-line these days.

A blog just won a Hugo, after all.
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
When my nephew Jonathan was younger he tried to convince us that Canada didn't exist. It as a running gag for him forever--the kind where occasionally, I'd be, like, "Are you joking?" and he'd continue his serious rant about how it's all a government plot.

I, however, now have photo documentation that Canada exists.

Because, seriously, who would doctor a photo to make it seem like the highway signs all wear crowns.


Honestly, Shawn and I were actually unaccountably charmed by the royal highway signs and spent a significant part of our trip to Thunder Bay cooing over them. I also pointed out to her that if I robbed her, I was pretty sure that would make me a highwayman (well, highwaywoman, but the Roaches never sang about that.)

I also apparently am the worst at answering border patrol questions. I've been long schooled by the thought (something I saw on some cop show or other a zillion years ago) that if someone asks you if you have a watch, you look at your wrist and answer the question actually asked, i.e., "Yes/No, I [don't] own a watch," full stop, despite the inclination of most people to offer the time.

Shawn says that makes me sound suspicious. And it probably does. But, the border patrol let us through, anyhow, since I'm both suspicious and silly. Where did you come from?" "St. Paul." "Where are you headed?" "Thunder Bay." "How long will you be there?" "Overnight." "You came all the way from St. Paul to visit Thunder Bay for one day?" (he asked incredulously.) Shawn said at this point she was attempted to lie and point out that we felt there was a SIGN telling us to go (because OMG the Thunder Bay attraction billboards on 35 before Duluth were LEGION, though we do have them to thank for remembering to go back for our passports,) but I ended up mentioning that we just kind of wanted to go to Canada, a foreign country, as part of our honeymoon. This, of course, made the border guard shake his head like we were insane. I kind of wished I'd added, "Because, you know, we can't afford Paris. So Thunder Bay seemed like a good alternative."

Because he would have laughed.

I have to admit that we enjoyed the trip up to Thunder Bay more than the town itself. We ended up going to a Tim Robbins for breakfast on the day we left. I'd been hoping to go back to the Starbucks we spotted on the way in, but Shawn saw the Tim Robbins and told me she'd always wanted to go to one after reading about them in a Canadian murder mystery series. I can't deny a request like that, can I? The coffee was awful, but the donuts were fantastic.

We spent much of our time in Canada being ugly Americans. I was also inordinately charmed by the money. I'd gotten a 20 Canadian dollar bill at the bank before we left for Bearskin, and we broke that at the hotel's front desk so we could buy a bunch of Canadian candies in the vending machine. Having loonies in my pocket always amuses me far more than it should.

I also chatted up our hotel waiter about the World Cup. He, of course, was far more of a hockey fan, and didn't actually know if Canada was playing in the Cup (they're not.) But I kept telling Shawn that the way we knew we were in a foreign country was that people actually had the World Cup on the big screen TV in the main lounge. This would never happen in the US. It'd be Fox News or something awful.

We also saw Canadian Canada Geese, which also tickled me unaccountably.

Yes, I really am this easy.

On the way up, we stopped at Pigeon Falls/Grand Portage to look at the waterfall:


It was drizzling this day so the path to the waterfall was a little treacherous because they'd built a wheelchair accessible one that had nice wooden bridges and such... but they got really slippery in the light rain. At any rate, it was amazing.

The trip back home was also drizzly and Lake Superior put on quite the show for us with crashing waves and white caps. I tied to get a picture of its majesty, but this doesn't do the lake justice:

lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
As I alluded to, there was really only one day that we were rained-out. I'm sure it would not have been a debilitating day for any of the read outdoorsy folks who were deep into the BWCA. But, for us it meant a day camped out in front of the fire, reading, and playing Monopoly.

We'd brought a couple of games of our own, but the Lodge had Monopoly. Mason had never played, so we did. We played a kind of, pardon the pun, CHEAP version of Monopoly, which was to go until the first person couldn't pay a rent (without going into mortgage.) This meant that the games lasted reasonably long, but weren't several hours long. I have to admit I'm much fonder of Monopoly when it doesn't go on forever. We still had all the classic moments: slum lords building hotels on Baltic and Mediterranean, under-the-table deals for railroad and utility deeds, and, of course, much speculation as to why the BANKER was in jail (general opinion: embezzlement.)

We did take a picture off the dock that morning, because it was haunted and misty looking:

I also read an entire book. Not a manga, mind. A full, grown-up tome. I do this on occasion, but, you know, some books need uninterrupted TIME. I brought up a book like that. Yep, you major reader-types.

Just. One Book.

Look, part of it is my dyslexia. The other part is my restless nature. I'm not actually proud of it. (It does make packing less stressful, though!) But truthfully, I find it deeply embarrassing....

At any rate, I read THE LIKENESS by Tana French. It's a police procedural-ish type mystery that takes place in Dublin, Ireland (as opposed to Dublin, Pennsylvania or elsewhere).

I'd read and enjoyed the sequel, FAITHFUL PLACE, and Shawn said this one was her favorite (though we both agreed that Frank was hottest in his own novel, FAITHFUL PLACE.) I liked it tremendously, though it stretched my suspenders occasionally. I ultimately bought into the scenario, but I spent a lot of time asking Shawn questions like, "Wouldn't it be almost impossible to do this?" Not to spoil, but it's an undercover job where a woman attempts to replace someone who's died. The dead woman was living under an assumed name (one actually that our heroine herself had created for a previous undercover job.) They were dead ringers for each other. The "Likeness," as it were, takes an opportunity to steal the fake identity. There a lot to swallow in terms of coincidences, but like I said, in the end, I found it more enjoyable than anything else.

The writing was rich, dense and very... atmospheric. The commune that our heroine goes undercover into is full of fascinating quirky characters. I probably could have kept on living there, as it were. A perfect book to spend curled up with in front of a fire.

Mason and Shawn probably read a dozen books in the time it took me to finish that one.

So, let's see, what else? Well, before we leave Bearskin I should put up a couple of more pictures. As I mentioned previously, this year there were a a bunch more more kids' events so Mason also went to the sand castle building and paddleboat racing:


Here's them trying to steer the paddle boat. There were, coincidentally a lot more kids staying there than I've ever seen before (huh... just occurred to me that they'd have known that and probably made up these events to accommodate us all... d'oh.) So Mason was in a boat full of brothers, and then other boat is a family. A dad, mom, and two VERY LITTLE girls. The little girls won. (Weird, huh?) Though, tbf, Mason and crew gave it a valiant effort.


Okay, up next? Our trip into Canada!
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
While at Bearskin, we woke up one morning feeling adventurous, so we decided to take an actual honest-to-goodness hike into the BWCA. We asked at the front desk and Bob, bless his soul, took a look at us and said, "FOR YOU, I suggest Caribou Rock...."

For us, it turned out because there were spectacular views within a mile or so of the trailhead. We could go as far as we liked (the whole of the trail apparently takes you to the border and can be done as a 4 day hiking trip,) but there was a very fast (if moderately challenging in terms of steepness) reward for people LIKE US who were amateur hikers who just wanted to see some woodsy stuff.

Here's the view:

We also attempted a camera-timer "selfie":


I should take a moment to discuss the mosquito situation. The mosquitos were out in full-force nearly the entire time we were there (on the dock and in the canoe, however, we'd often get a reprieve because of the wind.) Some days were buggier than others, though. The day right before the one day of rain we got was, by far, the worst.

What I found interesting about the mosquitos is that they clearly favored Mason. There may be a couple of reasons for this. First, he's always been very warm-bodied. We often call him our hot-tot, because if you snuggle up to him, he seems to radiate heat. So the mosquitos probably could sense that and made a... well, not a bee-line, but a mosquito-line for him.

They seemed equally attracted to Shawn, however, and she is one of those people who sometimes, when you hold their hand, you think, "Wow, your skin is so chilly!"

Mosquitos mostly avoided me. We wondered aloud about this phenomenon a lot during our vacation. (Mostly because it made Mason mad. "Why don't they go after YOU, Ima?!??") We eventually concluded that the reason the mosquitos liked me the least was because of my sushi habit. I east sushi fairly regularly for lunch and I know for a fact that consumption of raw fish changes your body odor. So, it very well could have been that the mosquitos just didn't register me as tasty. Or at least a second choice to the more strictly carnivores in my family (because I also have a tendency to eat a lot more veggies than either Shawn or Mason.)

This time Bearskin also offered a number of kids' activities. Normally, we're not joiners, but Mason saw the list and wanted to try out slack lining, so we went to the demo. The demo was led by Andrea. We kept running into Andrea though out our stay. She seemed to be the children's events coordinator, but she was also the only one to introduce herself to us when we went to the wine and cheese mixer. (At which we tried Gunflint Trail wine and had... Colby and cheddar cheese. Not a fancy do, but very... erm, authentically "Fargo" if you know what I mean.)

At any rate, here's Mason on the slack line with Andrea and I spotting:

IMG_9105 copy

I even tried it, but you know, with me on the line, it dipped pretty close to the ground....

And this was the day that the mosquitos were at their absolute WORST. So we stayed long enough to enjoy it, but were eventually driven away and back out into the canoe to escape the bloodthirsty hoards.

The mosquitos also chased us away from our beloved "Moose Viewing Trail," where last time we were up we actually saw several moose. This time not only did the mosquitos dog us the whole way to the marsh and back, but there was really nothing to see there once we got there. Except, of course, the mysterious buried car...

This year, apparently, we didn't take a photo of the weird car in the woods, but it is there. It's very mysterious, being several miles off the road, and, well, having a boulder in the trunk. But you can clearly see the roof, the engine block and actually pull on the door handle which is fully-buried in the ground. (Which is also odd, because it kind of seems.., off, like maybe somehow the car was dropped with enough force to have bent the doors so that they lay parallel to the ground.... as if dropped by... aliens???)

Very mysterious.

We probably didn't get a picture because all you would have seen was the massive swarm of mosquitos....

In other news, my Loft class has ended and I'm reading no.6 a new manga I discovered on Saturday, when I worked at the Maplewood Library. I've written a review which I'll probably link back here once I get it up.

And.... here's the review:
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
(WARNING: spider picture follows!)

Bearskin Lodge is conscientious because they only charge you for the things you use. We decided ahead of time that we wanted to have a canoe every day. Our family is, for the most part, dock-sitters, but occasionally, as I said, I get antsy and want to do All The Things. So it's nice for me to be able to hop into a canoe and tool around the Lodge end of East Bearskin Lake.

I'm not an expert canoer by any stretch of imagination.

I've been in a canoe plenty, but in the world of self-propelled watercraft, I'm probably best at a kayak. It was particularly noticeable this time how much I kind of suck at canoe. This time we had some days when the wind really pushed me around. Even with Mason sitting in the front, we'd get pushed so hard that the canoe would just go in a circle or slam up against the shore. Probably this had a lot to do with the fact that I'm crap at steering (we discovered on the last day, of course, that Mason is a natural!) but, regardless, it was both upsetting and hilarious.

As a bonus, we're pretty sure that the Bearskin web cam caught some of our antics.

Here's the view from the canoe:


We pulled off on a little island to tromp around a bit. Here's the wild explorer, Mason:


The views of the lake were spectacular:


Here's us heading off:


Plus, it turns out? If you sit on the dock all day, you might encounter one of these:


This is what Andy called a 'dock spider' which he gleefully announced, gets bigger--much bigger. The size of dinner plates by August, he said. To which Shawn replied, "That's why we come in May."

Apparently they're a a type of dolomites, a fishing spider. That's right... they can sometimes catch and eat small fish. Mostly they eat water skaters, though, which I saw plenty of, which is, I suppose, how our dock could support TWO of these beasts.

We kept seeing a snake around near our dock too, and according to Wikipedia, snakes and birds are dock spiders' main predators.

Ah, nature!
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
Other than a stop for food (at a McDonald's, I think) we continued the rest of the way to Bearskin Lodge without stopping. We talked about places we wanted to go on the way back: Iona's Beach and the Split Rock Lighthouse (which I have never seen). But, we were starting to get anxious to arrive before the sun completely went down.

We got there around seven and checked in. Bearskin Lodge is about thirty-miles up the Gunflint Trail and pretty much delineates the "Last Homey House." There are flush toliets, running water, and showers in the cabins. You can gave motor boats on parts of East Bearskin Lake, but the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA) is just around the bend. A lot of people rent a cabin at Bearskin but use it as a place to take off from and come home to. We like to just call it "home" and do very short trips into the wilds.

Each cabin comes with its own, private dock. Inside are all the amenities including a kitchen (we packed all the food we'd need since the nearest store is MILES/hours away) and a fireplace. This time we took full advantage of the fireplace. It got very chilly late at night, so the fire was functional as well as fun.

Here's a blurry picture of me roasting marshmallows for our champaign and S'mores honeymoon feast (yes, you read that right. We had champaign and S'mores for our honeymoon):


Here's a better one of Mason doing the same thing (you can kind of see the main room of the cabin in this shot, too):


We had for the most part really good weather. As we left at the end of the week, Bob, the owner, told us we'd hit the "weather jackpot" and I think he was right, especially since we've come home to days and days of seemingly unending rain. While we were up there, both Shawn and Mason managed to get sunburned. For reasons of Bizzaro-World, I think, I managed to be the one who remembered to reapply my sunscreen early and often. I am a bit browner, but I managed to not get scorched. To be fair, I may have gotten burned if I'd brought more than one book to Bearskin, because this is what my family did most nice days (which is to say, sit on the dock and read):


I love to read, but I'm bad at it. I'm easily distracted partly because reading has always been a bit of a chore for me thanks to a mild case of dyslexia. Plus, I'm that person. Last time we were at Bearskin, Shawn teased me because I was always the one up at 6 am ready for a hike deep into the underbrush. At the time Modern Family had just had its Hawaii special episode and there was a funny bit about the two dads and how one of them preferred to relax and sip Mai-tais and the other wanted to visit the obscure lavender farm that had all 50 varieties of lavender. I was the lavender dad; Shawn was the Mai-tai dad.

Mason, too. He could read all day.

But here's my dock queen in her element:

IMG_9070 copy

Okay, I think that's it for tonight. My internet has been very come-and-go thanks to all these storms we've been having so any more pictures might break it. More tomorrow.

Also, if you're curious how my class went today, the answer was very well. My lecture started out a bit rough, but I could see it hit some of the students because I watched their gears turn and eyes light up and suddenly people had things they wanted to share. I love moments like that. Plus, we had this one as well:
lydamorehouse: (more renji art)
I've gotten our trip a bit out of order already, because we actually stopped at the historical marker for the Buchanan Settlement (12 miles from Duluth) before we got to Two Harbor's break wall. According to our guide book, this is the sight of a town that has since disappeared--a Minnesotan ghost town, if you will.

Honestly, we didn't even see any part of the remaining town. What impressed us was the beach that was just a hop down from the historical marker:

IMG_9026 copy

It was our first real up-close-and-personal with Lake Superior. As you can see, it was a gorgeous day. The sun was bright and the water and the sky were nearly the same color.


It'd been a long trip to this point. Duluth isn't all that far away, maybe three hours (?), but we'd had to turn back after we'd gone a half hour from the cities. Shawn had forgotten the passports. She only remembered them because we kept seeing sign after sign for Thunder Bay and we'd made a special point of getting Mason a passport so that we could travel to Canada on our last day of our honeymoon. So, it was a half hour to "oh sh*t!", a half hour laughing at ourselves back home, a quick call to Bearskin to warn them we might be late for check-in, and then a half-hour to get back where we'd started.

As the driver, I could have been irritated, but I knew that, like the last time Shawn and I and Mason had done this north shore trip, we'd be doing a lot of stops at overlooks, waysides and attractions along the way.

Next up was, as I already posted Twin Harbors break wall. Then, we went on to Flood Bay, a spot we'd enjoyed last time around. It's supposedly some of the best agate hunting along the north shore, but I'll be honest you. I wouldn't know an agate in the rough if it walked up and introduced itself to me. Luckily, the beach just has cool rocks. Tons and tons of Superior flattened, time worn, awesome looking rocks. Shawn found some "sea glass" (which Superior produces, even though it's a lake) and Mason found a rock with a perfect hole in the center of it--a fairy spyglass. He's been wearing it as a necklace since.

Here's what Flood Bay looks like:

Our guide book says "agate picking is good for the soul" and I have to agree. We often spend a huge amount of time sitting on this beach sifting stones. It's just... relaxing.


Much, much more to come, but I'm going to stop here again. Today, the other things I did was have a lovely critique session with my Loft students. It ended up taking the entire class, but I think that the students got a LOT out of it. Tomorrow we only have one person to critique, but I think that will make up for the lack of lecture today.

Also, it's Wednesday so, Mason and I did our usual podcast silliness. This one was lucky number 13, and I felt it was a lot of fun... see what you think.
lydamorehouse: (Default)
I thought I'd post a few pictures from our weekend get-away. Mason LOVES the water. Even before he could swim, Mason would spend hours splashing around and generally playing in the water. Here he's found a new way to combine two of his favorite things: reading and swimming:

We also played a lot with tree frogs/garden toads. Here's one of our captives (who lept to freedom shortly after peeing on us.)

Up North

Aug. 9th, 2011 09:50 am
lydamorehouse: (Default)
We're headed home later today, but I thought I'd say "hello" from the shores of Crooked Lake in Wisconsin. The weather (a chilly 66 degrees F) actually pushed me back indoors momentarily, but earlier today I sat outside listening to the loons call out over the water.

It's been the kind of vacation my family and I have needed. It's been really nice not to have anything to do, but float in the lake on a noodle. Mason and I discovered that you can blow a lot of water out the noodles and played noodle water wars for two days until he actually developed chapped lips from all the blowing. After that, we had to switch to underwater kung-fu, which is pretty much what it sounds like. Before each fight we'd say, "The only rule is that there are no rules! (Oh, except no kicking the snorkle and no drowning.)" Or sometimes we'd quote a home/art movie that our head instructor made in college, ie, "What does a man do when he's been humiliated by a pipe cleaner? He. Gets. EVEN!"

So we've had much fun. Plus, Crooked Lake has never been higher thanks to all the rain. We've seen frogs and fish and toads (in the garden) in numbers never spotted before. When the weather was roastier we managed to get quite sunburned.

It's been ideal.

Wish you were here.
lydamorehouse: (Default)
In an effort to get Mason to do something other than rot his brains playing video games over his spring vacation, he and I went birding with a group this morning as part of the 2011 Birding Festival. The ironic part of this is that no matter how much "enrichment" stuff I do with him during vacation, he'll end up telling his teacher that he spent his vacation watching TV and playing games.


Anyway, if you're reading this Ms. H., at 8:00 am, we showed up at the Bruce Vento Nature Sanctuary with other stalwart folks and our grandfatherly guide, Julian. I'm not a big birder, as it were, but I do love hanging out with people who know what they're doing. Julian was one of those people who could identify various bird songs and tell us what we were looking for (or looking at.) We saw cormorants, Caspian turns, Balitmore orioles, American goldfinch, green herons, spotted sandpipers, Tennessee warblers, common yellow-throated warblers, and a bunch of stuff I can't remember any more, alas. There was one bird, in particular, I wish I could remember the name of -- it had a gorgous red/orange and black tail that it liked to spread out. It was a relatively small bird, but Mason and I just happened to be right underneath it and got a good look at the tail.

There were also a bunch of swallows of one kind or another darting about, along with red wing black birds, as this area was a bit marshy and wet. Even though Mason got a bit bored whenever the birders stopped to stare at the trees (which, of course, was the point of the whole excursion), I think I talked him into trying another outing tomorrow. There are two that seem promising -- one at Como at 8:00 am again and another over in Minneapolis at 10:00 at the Roberts Bird Sanctuary. Mason said he wanted to try the later one, since there was a lot of yawning associated with this one. The weather this morning wasn't that great either, though we missed the drizzle by about 20 minutes.

I actually really enjoy wet hikes as long as I have my head covered. I had both a hoodie and a ball cap, so I was nice and snug for the walk. So equiped, I find I really kind of enjoy cold, wet meanders. Of course, I bought coffee, too, so I was well caffinated, which improves the mood considerably.

With any luck, we'll have a little sunshine for tomorrow's hike.

Also, for those keeping track of the various mentions of Resurrection Code, Cheryl Morgan let me know that she mentioned my book briefly (and very positively) at the very end of her post at Salon Futura.

Tonight is kuk sool wan for Mason and I. I'm looking forward to it. Jo Kyo Nim tells me that I will get to pick up *MY* testing form tonight, so that means Mason's reign as ruling yellow belt of the house may soon be over. Bwah ha ha ha HA!

Oh, yes, let's see if the picture feature is working better today. Here's the testing. You can just see Mason's head in the front row. That's Sa Bum Nim leading the exercises:

Here's Mason receiving his new belt:

At home showing off the new belt in dragon stance:

lydamorehouse: (Default)
Just as we had on the way up, we made the trip home an adventure all its own. I was in full-on lavender-dad mode* -- including making us make a few u-turns when we missed our turn-offs. However, with one exception all our side trips were worth it.

The first stop was a short jaunt up Highway 1 off 61 to see Illgen Falls, made slightly longer by the fact that our guide book 61 GEMS ON HIGHWAY 61 noted we were to turn left just after the sign that read “Devil’s Rock,” but neglected to mention that the sign was _tiny_ and really easy to miss. We sailed right by it, but luckily the book also said we were to have seen it after only 1.5 miles. Even though I hadn’t watched my odometer, it was clear we’d gone much further since we entered Finland (the town, not the country, but cue jokes about being REALLY lost right about now.)

Shawn “Eagle Eye” Rounds spotted the tiny marker the second time we passed it and another set of u-turns got us into the pull-off. We had a brief argument about whether or not we could actually park in the no parking spot by the locked fence marked “State Park.” But Shawn suggested, and I think rightly so, that the pull-out was a better spot. It was clearly the right choice when we noticed the trail right next to where we finally parked.

The guide book promised that the trail was narrow and steep, but short. Turns out they weren’t kidding about the steep part. If we hadn’t come to a set of man-made stairs, I would have believed that the whole thing was just a deer trail that people had used on occasion. The trail got us out at the top of the falls.

A bit of scrambling, and we got the money shot. The best part was that the guide book was right. It was impressive as hell. The picture they shot was during a drought, so I wasn’t prepared for this:

Satisfied that the little spat of arguing and getting lost was totally worth it, we all climbed back into the car and set off for our next destination, Iona’s Beach. The reason I wanted to see this beach is because the book said that if, conditions were right, the sound of the waves hitting this unique shoreline of flat, shingle-like “pink rhyolite and felsite bedrock” makes a tinkling, bell-like sound. It’s also designated a scientific research area, which just added a whole extra level of potential awesome, I thought.

Here, the guide book out and out LIED. It said that turn off to the beach was clearly marked near mile marker 42. We zoomed past mile marker 42 because all that was well marked was a sign saying “public water access” which is a dime a dozen along the North Shore Drive. We made yet another u-turn and pulled into the lot, where more confusion set in. We parked. We looked over at a beach and a breakwall. The beach was clearly marked, “Private Property, Enter at Your Own Risk.” Hmmm, not the friendly, inviting beach the guide book suggested we’d see. Plus, it was decidedly not pink, which was supposed to be one of the more striking features of Iona’s Beach.

We looked around. There was a path leading north, and Shawn remembered reading something about a short hike to the beach. Okay, what the hell, we thought. After all, Illgen Falls seemed hard to find, but had panned out as well worth the hassle.

A short walk revealed a rather stunning beach. There was a rock formation that looked, well, fake, and Shawn suggested that it might be lava flow (which we knew from our other reading was a definite possibility along the North Shore.) This, however, still didn’t seem right. Could this be Iona’s Beach? Where were the pink rocks? The magical sound of the waves hitting rock? This was a seriously awesome beach, but I wasn’t convinced this was Iona’s.

Shawn and Mason were quite content to explore. I was, as previously mentioned, in Adventure Mode, and so was on a quest to find THE BEACH (fill in “lavender farm” or other ridiculous sounding destination.) I noticed that the path continued, and that there appeared to be a sign post at the top of the nearby cliff. I yelled that I was off to investigate. Sure enough, here, quite a distance from the pull off was the “well marked” sign indicating that just beyond was the famed Iona’s Beach.

It’s definitely weird. I’ve never seen a beach quite like it, what with gigantic dunes of perfectly flat blue, green and pink stones. But, was it worth the hassle of discovery? Iffy. When Shawn and Mason joined me, Mason enjoyed tossing the rocks back into the water, but the lake couldn’t have been more glassy and still, so there was no tinkling or magical bell-like sound to hear. But, we also explored a nearby cavern carved by the waves, which, when we tossed rocks down it, made a FANTASTIC splooshing sound. In the end, as Shawn noted later in the car, the first beach was way more interesting. Iona’s Beach seemed desolate and alien in comparison.

Our next big destination was food. When we finally stopped at a fast food joint and filled up the car at the gas station, I remarked that we’d gone approximately 100 miles in four hours. And, we skipped stopping at Flood Bay again, though very regretfully. We’re going to make that part of our annual trip, however. Unsuccessful agate hunting is much more fun for us, and, really, a bit more Mai Tai,* as it’s very relaxing.

With all the driving and side-trips, I was exhausted by the time we got home. I’ve been slowly recovering ever since. The time at the lake was very relaxing, but I need a vacation from the drive back! I don’t regret making the stops along the way, but I think it was more fun on the way up because once we got to the cabin, it was relaxation time. On the way home, we came back to unpacking, unopened mail, etc., etc.

I can’t wait to do it all again next year. We already booked our cabin for next season.

*see earlier post (part 2) for explanation.
lydamorehouse: (Default)
Do you ever watch the show “Modern Family”? We love it. It features three families, all very different, connected by blood relation. One of the families is two gay men and their adopted daughter, Lily. It’s weird, actually, how much we have in common with the gay guys. There was one episode where they were trying the “cry out” method, which Shawn and I attempted with Mason for about as long and with as much success. One of the dads kept bursting into tears, while the other complained about not wanting to always be the “teach-y dad.” That was so us – with me and Shawn being clown dad or teach-y dad at some point or another.

One of the last episodes we saw before heading up was about the entire extended family’s trip to Hawaii. The gay guys bit was about how people vacation. One of the dads was all about events and doing and Adventure, with the capital “A.” The other just wanted to sip Mai Tais by the beach and relax. This all came to a head when the adventure-loving one, Mitchell, had it in his mind to go to a lavender farm. “The biggest in the world! Five different varieties of lavender!” The other dad finally broke and said, “No. I’m not doing it. Lily and I will be at the beach.” This trip I’m kind of in lavender farm mode; Shawn is all about the Mai Tais.

So we’ve been doing a bit of both. Moose View Trail satisfied a lot of my lavender-dad-ness, as does the occasional canoe/kayak around the lake. Mason is perfectly in-between, spending a lot of his time making his own fun on the main lodge’s tiny beach front/boat landing. I’ve also spent some time sitting on the dock and reading. In fact, I finished Scott Westerfeld’s UGLIES while up at Bearskin Lodge, not knowing it was a cliffhanger ending! Argh! Worse, the other books I brought I’m not entirely in the mood for, though I think I will finish up Laura Resnick’s DOPPLEGANGSTER.

While in Mai Tai mode, we saw this hen duck nosing around in the weeds by the shore very close to our dock. At first, we were very quiet, trying not to spook her. But after a while it became clear, she was totally playing us. When I brought out a bit of trail mix bar to coax her with, she came zooming up and even took it out of my hand. At one point it apparently took me too long to tear off the next bit, because she flapped her waddle-ly self up onto the dock and just grabbed it. We were quite amused by her antics and even fetched her more bread from our cabin. Shawn and I dubbed her “tourist duck” because the lodge couldn’t have entertained us more, if they’d arranged the whole experience.

I saw her trying it on with the folks down the trail earlier today. She’s got quite the racket.

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